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Posts: 3,063
Reply with quote  #21 
You'll get condensation, how much depends on air circulation. You might try foam weatherstrip along the edges of the polyiso for a better seal.

We used polyiso inserts in our camper. Barb covered the in side with fabric for appearance. Looked a lot better.

You might consider cutting a "window" in the insert and "glazing" it with shrink film. It would be a little less like living in a cave. Just a thought, I haven't tried it.

Solar is like the wind. It may be free, but putting it to work isn't!
Willie, Tampa Bay


Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #22 
I think part of my problem with condensation and icing is that my interior thermal panels are not totally air tight. So warm humid household air is able to sneak behind and condense on the glass that is now very cold because the foam panel is insulating the glass from the house heat. I guess ideally you should install air tight interior panels when a room is cold and has the lowest humidity possible and then leave them in place all winter. But in my case there are some windows that I don't mind leaving covered during the 3-4 coldest months and other windows where I remove the covers during daylight hours, so the daylight windows keep getting warm humid air trapped behind them over the cold night. [frown]

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Posts: 543
Reply with quote  #23 
I took the inserts out and the ice was gone in about 20 minutes. Everything was totally dry about 10 minutes later.
For now I will remove them in the morning and pop them in at night.

Our inside humidity is around 25 right now.  That seems to be enough moisture for our extreme cold we are having right now.

Was also thinking what else may work, an extreme seal or a small vent at the bottom and top for a little airflow.
Would be nice if the windows had a vacuum between the panes and sealed completely. [smile]

Bert K.


Posts: 137
Reply with quote  #24 
My film inserts are sealed air tight, the windows are not. With expansion / contraction of the air as it heats and cools, and wind the air is exchanged with outside air and it's lower moisture level. I did have some frost on the lower corners of the glass, but only at -15f and colder.

Posts: 56
Reply with quote  #25 
A more important issue would be to remove your window screens during the heating season to allow 25% more light through the window in the first place. Another issue is to wash the window in the Fall to allow another 5% of light into the heated area.

I use several different inside window inserts depending where the window is located in the house and in the sky-lites. I used U-shaped plastic frames cut from plastic fencing boards along with plywood corner angles. Several are covered in clear shrink plastic and several have 1" insulating foam installed. The face edge has foam strips for sealing. One trick is to apply talc powder to the foam strip face so the frames can be removed with out destroying the seal. The frames are held in place with window zinc clips mounted on a screw covered in Teflon tape (the tape help hold the clip in position).


Jim from IL

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Posts: 3,063
Reply with quote  #26 
Hm the plastic fence boards sound like a good idea, much less work than wood, and you can probably glue them with PVC cement.  Talc a good idea too! Thanks for sharing.

Solar is like the wind. It may be free, but putting it to work isn't!
Willie, Tampa Bay

Posts: 565
Reply with quote  #27 
What are "aluminum twist tabs"?

I also remove the screens and clean the windows before winter to maximize the solar gain.

Kevin H
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