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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #21 
Well, what do you know. I shop 2 different Home Depot stores near me and neither of them carry coroplast sheets. But there are several stores that do carry it. It's not my first choice, but it's good to know.

Greg in MN

stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #22 
What WOULD be your first choice?

Im wondering if pvc could be used for the sides and ends and coroplast for the back. Everything would have to be protected by polyiso, though.

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Willie, Tampa Bay
dbc

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Reply with quote  #23 
Greg - I suspect you are now working on your Version 3 Zero Pass, detailed in another post, but did you ever get a chance to pursue the ZP/DP idea?  I only recall one other person trying something similar - Solar Dan built a 2x16 dual-pass collector a couple years ago, although he used a screen layer to separate the front and back passes instead of a flashing plate.  I gather that didn't work out too well.  I think he ended up modifying this into a more conventional one-way ZP design, which featured an interesting metal track screen frame, and which did work quite well.

I am especially interested in locating both ports at the same end; this is a big advantage for my setup, where they enter the building side by side.
stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #24 
What size collector were you planning? I can see why a 2x16 might not work well, as the total channel would be 1x32. That's a really long channel and it will be hard to push enough air through it. A 4x8 would probably work better, as the channel would be 2x16, twice as wide and half as long.
Another option could be a center feed, which effectively makes two collectors. I built a small one and it works well, but I have nothing to compare it to.

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Willie, Tampa Bay
dbc

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Reply with quote  #25 
Willie - Sorry, I forgot to mention that proposed size will be 4x8, or possibly 4x10.  I am right now working on rough sketches for a couple ideas.  I will post more in a few minutes in the Hot Air Collectors section so's I don't inadvertently take this thread sideways.

I agree, 1x32 would be a bust.  I suspect the screen gap on my 2x16 is already creating a slight choke point.  I never made airflow measurements right at the collector ports; maybe I should do that one of these days.
stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #26 
My ZP dual pass.  It might or might not be suitable for you:

ZP dual pass.jpg 


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Solar is like the wind. It may be free, but putting it to work isn't!
Willie, Tampa Bay
gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #27 
Don-

My ZPDP is about halfway complete, which is exactly where it was last fall when I ended up having surgery on a messed up knee. And since my workshop is in the basement, working downstairs was a no-go, as by the time my knee was better, it was too cold to paint outside. My knee also messed up my new modular ZP build for the same reason. But rest assured, I want to complete and test it against my old 4x8 2-screen collector before I sell it. 

Dan did build something similar, except the divider separating the front to back was made of screen. And if I recall, the air would bypass the turn around, which would not only greatly diminish output, but the lack of air flow at the turn was overly hot likely due to the reduced flow. But as Dan mentioned, the 180˚ turns are really hard on airflow. Bigger is better, but you can only make a return so large within a given space. 


Greg in MN

gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #28 
Willie/Don

I think you could get away with a 1'x32' if the run was straight and the screen gap was large. There have been long narrow collectors with only a doubled-up downspout for airflow. Scott's first SS collector was one such design as it ran along the side of his garage if I recall. That's what makes DIY collectors so great is their versatility. 

Greg in MN
gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #29 
Don-

You mentioned that you think your screen gap may be a choke point. I've tested the ZP versus a 2-screen and the ZP allowed more air flow. While my test units were only 8' long, the ZP did show better air flow at the various speeds tested. As you mentioned above is to take your know CFM output reading at the exhaust of the ducting. Now remove the ducting from the end of the ZP itself, attach a 2'-3' duct, and take another reading. You have a rather long duct run from the end of the collector to the final exhaust. You also have several 90˚ elbows. Not saying you can make major changes to the ducting, if at all. But at least you may be able to identify if there is a bottleneck where you suspect. When Bert was building and wiring up his collector I suggested a bypass for his fan so he could not only vent the unit, if needed, but to help identify any possible restrictions. I think he found an area or two in his ducting that needed a little adjustment.

Greg in MN
dbc

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Reply with quote  #30 
Greg - Thanks for the update.  I hope your knee is mending OK.

Willie - I know you have quite a few projects, not sure which one this is, but I will check it out.  Thanks.
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