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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #11 
Rick-

When we built his ZP we couldn't get the air to flow evenly with an end entry until we added a deflector to divert the incoming air towards the back or bottom of the collector. So it is possible to have even flow across the screen slot with either entry. 

Greg in MN

Rick H Parker

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Reply with quote  #12 
Variable height deflector? Looking at it from the end of the collector, it is shaped like a V? The idea is to create an even flow resistance between the port and all points top to bottom.

Rick H Parker


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Rick H Parker
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Rick H Parker

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Reply with quote  #13 
What I like about diagonally opposite ports is: if you do them symmetry the flow will be even. No extra hardware that steals energy from the air flow and lengthens the EL. Saves on materials and labor.

Rick H Parker



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Rick H Parker
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #14 
The ZP needs and wants LOTS of CFM's. And if you push the air into the intake manifold, you create an overpressure. The air is swirling in the manifolds wildly. And the only place for the air to escape is through the narrow slot between the screens. The airflow flows evenly the entire width of the screen slot. I do know that you can effectively have both entry and exit ducts near the bottom edge of a horizontal ZP. Mranum has this very setup. With the ZP, there doesn't seem to be difference as to where in your manifolds you place your ducts. Which can give you more flexibility with your install. And as I keep telling my friend Craig, why enter from the end if you have to have a deflector?

Greg in MN
Rick H Parker

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Reply with quote  #15 
I think I getting your ZP concept. Correct me if I'm wrong. Your attempting to create a high velocity air flow between the screens and let the windchill scrub the heat off the screens efficiently.

Rick H Parker

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Rick H Parker
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #16 

You are correct sir! 

To my knowledge their have been about a dozen ZP or ZP hybrids built in one form or another by SimplySolar members. Our current test is simply to find if there is an "optimal" screen gap opening. Too large, and the main flow of air may be too far from the heated screen layers for efficient heat exchange. Too small of a gap and air flow will be restricted. I'm pretty sure anything less than an inch is too small, as my original ZP choked noticeably with any gap smaller than a 1 gap.

As mentioned, the ZP needs a lot of air to extract the heat and keep the output temps low and efficient. But that means larger fans are needed. The ZP also works best with an elongated configuration which may take more space. But low and wide also means it will often fit below windows.


Greg in MN


Rick H Parker

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Reply with quote  #17 
Got an idea we can kick around.

Based on what you are saying. I am visualizing a ZP design that I think would be simpler to build and give better control then what your doing.

  1. Take a pair of two inch pipes, cut slits lengthwise. Cap the ends and a install a port near one end on each pipe. 
  2. Pipes are supported by 2X4 headers and footers with holes to support the pipes, this would be the top and bottom of the collector frame. 
  3. Mound pipes with slits faceing each other, wrap one screen around both pipes and seal the top and bottom to the header and footer.  
  4. If you feel that you need to split the collector into channels, you can run more pipes between the two slit pipes. 
  5. If you feel that the gap between the screens need to less then 2 inches, you can use a smaller pipe size or install chokes that wrap the screen around the pipe more then 180 degrees. 
  6. The chokes could be a wire wrapped around the height of the screen on both sides or it could be the the pieces cut out for the slits cut lengthwise and pin on top of the screen and pipes. 

Got some Ideas on air supply but lets leave that for another time and kick the above Idea around for now.

Rick H Parker

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Rick H Parker
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #18 
Rick-

I love kicking around ideas...

But I'm not sure what you mean by better controls? As of now, the only control you might have on a ZP is a fan speed control. And that's only needed if the output temp is a bit too lukewarm for your comfort. You can slow the air to warm the output temp. Many, if not most of the ZP collectors built so far, end up running their fans at full speed in order to keep the output temps under control. Do you have an idea for a control that might benefit a ZP that we are not thinking of? If so, please tell!

Greg in MN


Rick H Parker

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Reply with quote  #19 

Opps! when I said better control, I was jumping the gun. It has to do with some more advanced Ideas, I intended to hold back until the basic concept above got through the peer review process. I hope you don’t mind, I would like to keep holding the controls back for a little while longer. Too much at one time make things unmanageable.

It has something to do with the air supply and/or pipe construction.


What you think about the basic construction concept? Pros and cons welcome … anybody.


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Rick H Parker
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Rick H Parker

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Reply with quote  #20 
"end up running their fans at full speed in order to keep the output temps under control"

That has much to do with the aspect ratio of the collector.

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Rick H Parker
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