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victordaniels

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Posts: 17
Reply with quote  #1 
I've never built a hot air collector and could use your expertise.  As you can see, the air would be pumped out of the basement, around the windows clockwise on the south side of the house and back into the basement. The crucial thing in the design is that it must be removable in the summer, per wife's insistence. I've got it partitioned into 6 pieces, each 2' wide and 9-11' long. My home is at 40 degrees north latitude and 6000' altitude. At this point, the issues I must address are:

1 light weight
2 how to attach seasonally
3 how to join the 6 boxes
4 am I nuts to go this big to begin with?

Thanks for lending me your experience.

idea.jpg

gbwillson

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Posts: 2,233
Reply with quote  #2 
Victor-

We're all a bit nuts to some degree. At least until our family and friends feel the cheap warm air coming out of our collectors.

As you have it now, building a removable collector, in sections, around the windows, seems like a very tough build. This is especially true of your first build. Just for simplicity, You might consider a long 4' tall collector beneath the lower windows.

A 4' tall by 24' long, or even longer collector might even be able to be left in place year round if it looks nice with the proper summer covers. Do the intake and exhaust have to be next to each other? Are you accessing the house through a basement window? Can you have intakes at both end of the collector, instead of the same end? 

Greg in MN
victordaniels

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Posts: 17
Reply with quote  #3 
A 4' tall would be 2-3 feet in the snow in the winter, hence the panel higher up.

My wife is adamant that they look ugly and doesn't want them insight when we are outside for the summer.

Intake and exhaust need to be in that position. If I put one on the other side of the panel it feeds into or draws from the garage rather than the basement.

Do you think so many turns is an issue?

How big would the plenums need to be on each corner?
jjackstone

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Posts: 35
Reply with quote  #4 
I've not been around as long as a lot of these guys but I have a couple things you might want to think about.
1. How are you going to mount the boxes to the wall?
2. I would probably add legs or a stand at the midpoint and the right end to hold the entire frame up.
3. For attaching the various sections together you could use something along the lines of a bicycle quick release spindle. Put a couple brackets at each coupling point for the spindles to attach to. Alternately use heavy duty spring loaded latches.
4. Maybe thin foam between each section for a good seal. You'd need a way to waterproof the foam.
5. As for the bends you could always use some flashing to make nice smooth curves at the corners for better airflow.

That's all I have for now.

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Bert

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Posts: 517
Reply with quote  #5 
That's a tough one with all those turns and the input output by each other. Is there another entry into the basement you can use?


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Bert K.
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victordaniels

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Posts: 17
Reply with quote  #6 
1. How are you going to mount the boxes to the wall?

I'll set the top one on top of the log ends above he windows, then screw them in somehow, It's a log wall with plenty of available wood.

3. For attaching the various sections together you could use something along the lines of a bicycle quick release spindle. Put a couple brackets at each coupling point for the spindles to attach to. Alternately use heavy duty spring loaded latches.

I'm not sure what quick release spindles are. Do you have a picture?

4. Maybe thin foam between each section for a good seal. You'd need a way to waterproof the foam.

Will the foam act as glue? If so It will make them hard to separate in the summer. Maybe weather striping of some sort?

5. As for the bends you could always use some flashing to make nice smooth curves at the corners for better airflow

Good idea.


How big of a motor would I need.I've got 120 sq. feet.


mclark999

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Posts: 183
Reply with quote  #7 
Any way you can easily keep the snow cut down in front?  One advantage of having it low to the ground is you can add reflectors on the ground (I use mylar emergency blankets) that will boost the output significantly. Then you could just have a u turn at the far end and come back to your starting point.

I have my collector pointing into the basement and it does a good job of providing heat into the main space for several hours after it shuts off. What I miss out on is heat early in the day. It has to run for a couple hours each day before the heat gets into the main floor.

Having said all this, I think you'll love the end result and I do think making one bigger collector at the bottom would be easier. But it wouldn't be that hard to build the design you have and the pieces would be smaller and lighter and easier to put up and take down each year. 



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Denver, CO

Double screen hot air collector
jjackstone

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Posts: 35
Reply with quote  #8 
3. For attaching the various sections together you could use something along the lines of a bicycle quick release spindle. Put a couple brackets at each coupling point for the spindles to attach to. Alternately use heavy duty spring loaded latches.

Quote:
I'm not sure what quick release spindles are. Do you have a picture?


Here is a link. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html   These can be found in other lengths for things like seat posts. 

4. Maybe thin foam between each section for a good seal. You'd need a way to waterproof the foam.

Quote:
Will the foam act as glue? If so It will make them hard to separate in the summer. Maybe weather striping of some sort?


Yes, something along the lines of weather stripping. It would only be adhered on one side. My reasoning for it is to make a decent seal to keep the air from escaping at the points where the boxes meet.

Have to ask the more knowledgeable guys about what size motor. They recommend 3cfm output flow per sqft of collector. So it kind of depends on how well the air moves through your design.

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JJ
stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #9 
If in doubt go oversize. You can always slow it down.

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KevinH

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Posts: 554
Reply with quote  #10 
I don't think the turns at the right end are an issue.  They are equivalent to the U-turn that is all of my collectors.  The thing that will be the biggest factor is the total length versus the width; 60 feet long and only 2 feet wide with an equivalent length higher than that.  If this is a screen or ZP, the collector depth will need to be deeper.  Also, the area by the in/out drops to 1 foot wide so that will need to be sized deeper than the rest of the collector.

Since they will be mounted to a solid surface, wood is not needed on the back (less weight).  Just a frame and maybe small strips of wood and triangles at the corners to stiffen the frame.  The seam between the sections will be a challenge.

Kevin H
MN
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