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Bert

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Reply with quote  #11 
stmbtwle

Some good ideas there.  I forgot about those car fans. Funny since I already have one that's over 1000 cfm.  I wonder how the air pressure are with them. At that high a cfm I would think it would be ok.

BTW my collectors will be air collectors. I wanted to do water, but not sure if I'm up to the extra work, and money. Social security doesn't go far.

I like the idea of storing the heat with water.

I will have the thermostat reroute the heat to another room when it's too hot. Maybe the basement. That would be somewhat like storage. I've even thought about the garage, but it would lose heat fast without insulation out there.

 If I did want to use 120v with a 12v backup, I would have to figure out how to hook them up without sacrificing airflow. Maybe dampers and a Y again.

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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #12 
For that 20' long collector, as a ZP, would two sections of screens be good? A one piece section may not be taut enough. I think 10' would be tight though.
They could be butt against each other in the collector.


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Bert K.
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stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #13 
Sending the excess heat to the basement seems like a good idea.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #14 
Bert-

Blowing warm air into the basement is a great idea, especially if the ceiling is unfinished. In a way you can store warmed air. The warmed air entering the basement will rise up between the floor joists and be absorbed by the subfloor. Wood holds a lot of heat and releases it slowly over time. My basement normally warmed up 10-12 degrees and the residual heat in the wood would keep the main floor comfortable for hours after the sun went down. On a sunny day my furnace will run in the morning until the collector turns on and usually won't run again until the next morning.

I know you can tightly stretch screen tight over 12', and I think you likely pull 16' tight too. But 20'??? Two 10' sections would be better. I'm working on a couple of different ways to stretch screen that DON'T involve a frame. I'll know the results soon. 

Greg in MN


Bert

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Reply with quote  #15 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbwillson


I know you can tightly stretch screen tight over 12', and I think you likely pull 16' tight too. But 20'??? Two 10' sections would be better. I'm working on a couple of different ways to stretch screen that DON'T involve a frame. I'll know the results soon. 

Greg in MN



I've been thinking about how to use screens without frames as well. Could use cross pieces at each end. Would have to find a way to tighten the screen though.  I have seen your post on tightening screens in a frame. That's a great idea. 
I am very interested in your ideas about frameless screens Please let us know when you can.



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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #16 
If I go with 120v fans then what  do you think about any of these for an 80 sq  collector?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/1FQY0OJGHH9HE/ref=cm_wl_list_o_32?


I was planning on 8" ducts. I think that will work for a collector this size.

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Bert K.
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Reply with quote  #17 
I was thinking about slanting my 11 x 8 collector about 70 degrees. This would give it a bit more sun plus I would have enough room at the bottom for my two ducts. They would go down and then through the block into the crawl space.
88-panel.jpg 
What do you think? I wouldn't think that snow would stick very much. The ducts would be easier this way I believe.
What's the best way to have the air travel. The two ducts at the bottom is a problem.
Should I make a double pass with the air traveling up and then down around the back? Or should I make a U shape passage way?
[confused]


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Bert K.
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Garage_Hermit

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Reply with quote  #18 
Looks like a good idea, Bert.

If in addition to the slant, you unstick the collector some from the wall - just a few inches - you could even get more derestriction.

G_H

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Bert

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Reply with quote  #19 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garage_Hermit
Looks like a good idea, Bert.

If in addition to the slant, you unstick the collector some from the wall - just a few inches - you could even get more derestriction.

G_H


GH

Are you talking about airflow?

BTW maybe building the collector a bit taller and having the duct go straight in may be better?
88-panel2.jpg 
Would the right image help the air flow over the left?


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Bert K.
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Garage_Hermit

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Reply with quote  #20 
Bert, I was referring to the depth of the collector -- at the top.

Not sure how the airflow is planned up there.  So I suggested making a deeper collector, which would therefore stand out from the wall by a few more inches...

Regarding your question about the bottom air connections, I would go for something as shown in Scott's video...


(go to the 7'37" cue).

Quote:
having the duct go straight in may be better


Yes, I think it would.
(In any case, you could not get the duct parallel to the glazing !).

Otherwise, you could probably go for a straight-through airflow (no 180-deg turn) - take the air from the top of the room, down the collector, and out at the bottom: no U-turn.
Translation: take air from the lounge, through the collector, then *ROUTE* the hot air *through* the CS, and dump it somewhere in the house, low down and NORTH...).

G_H

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