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Bruce

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Posts: 77
Reply with quote  #11 
Garvey,
I agree with the above to check into twin wall...you are lucky to have that cheap source near you. I have to drive 30 miles to get twin wall at a Produce Supply Farm Store for $5.15 per linear foot, 4 foot wide, but can get any length in 2 foot increments...meaning I can buy and pay for 6 foot lengths.  Keep reading the many posts in this Forum and you will get all sorts of ideas.  The common way to control the fans is to connect the fan to a $8 snap switch that comes on at 90 degrees and goes off at 75 degrees, so it runs when there is heat available. I have a little "half fast" air heater on one of my garage doors that operates at lower temps so I used an 80/65 degrees snap switch.  I would suggest that you might want to continue as planned (BTW, nice drawing) and see how the passive system works for you and add a fan or two if you have "excess" heat. Part of the DYI pleasure of this hobby is experimenting with different methods, posting your challenges here and get all sorts of advice from others.  Don't let the fear of imperfection scare you away. Good luck and post lots of pics while you build!

GARVEY MN

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Posts: 10
Reply with quote  #12 
Bruce, thanks. I really can't wait till the weather warms up and I can start my build. There is a ton of information and ideas on here, takes a bit to get some of the jargon figured out at times. I will get pics on here once I get started.
GARVEY MN

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Posts: 10
Reply with quote  #13 
I finally was able to get out and build my collector. I decided I had better insulate the floor of my shed before I started building a permanent heater.
Just finished cutting out the holes in my shed. Im hoping my design will work well. Ive got 7 intakes and 3 exhausts, with the top one being the largest, to take full advantage of hot air rises. I will attempt to upload some pictures.

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gbwillson

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Posts: 2,224
Reply with quote  #14 
Looks good Garvey-

It looks like you are almost ready to close things up. Have you figured out your back-draft flaps and tracked down the glazing? If you think you might want to add fans and a temp control, keep that in mind when close up the unit so you still have easy access later on. You might also want to loosely cover the unit for a few days until the smells dissipate a bit and you make sure everything is working as you had planned. 

Greg in MN
GARVEY MN

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Posts: 10
Reply with quote  #15 
I tacked up some 1 mil poly for the flaps, but it is way too thin. I will have to get some 6 mil instead. Unfortunately I'm not home to do any other testing today. I'm at a wedding in the cities instead... I'm looking forward to seeing how it works tomorrow.
gbwillson

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Posts: 2,224
Reply with quote  #16 
Garvey-

Most of the flaps I've seen use flaps 1mil or thinner, though it might depend on the airflow. If you weren't in town for a wedding, I'd invite you over. There are quite a few solar enthusiasts within a few blocks of me, and I'm sure we could think of something to talk about.

Greg in Minneapolis
stmbtwle

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Posts: 2,702
Reply with quote  #17 
A screen of 1/4" hardware cloth could support the flaps.

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Willie, Tampa Bay
GARVEY MN

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Posts: 10
Reply with quote  #18 
I understand putting flaps on the exhaust so the system doesn't go in reverse at night, but would flaps on the intake, inside the collector also help with that. Since there is little to no r value to the outside temps? Great idea for using hardware cloth to support the poly.
Gordy

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Posts: 137
Reply with quote  #19 
Garvey,

I have flaps top and bottom. My duct holes are in a steel clad door, and a lot smaller than your duct opening's. I used Zip Lock bags, open them and blow air in and reseal so they are 3/8 to 1/2" thick and mounted them with magnets. The air in the bag gives some R value, kind of like double pained windows.

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Gordy,
Minnesota
mclark999

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Posts: 183
Reply with quote  #20 
Regarding a fan, I had a "simple" suggestion.  You might just have a box fan set a few feet away from the bottom openings that you'd turn on when you are using the shop. Your collector is so large it should provide plenty of heat and just a little airflow would seem to me to spread the heat around your shop. Another idea would be a ceiling fan that would push heat down from the ceiling and out around the floor. It would basically draw air from the top and push air into the bottom. 

I don't think you'll need a forced air solution just something that moves a little air and "encourages" the collector.

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Denver, CO

Double screen hot air collector
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