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alpinebigfoot

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Reply with quote  #11 
I can always just add another T above that. Move the cold line to the top and the solar line below it

SolarInterested

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Reply with quote  #12 
alpinebigfoot.jpg 

The forum software had rotated your photo so for clarity here it is upright (and reduced to 1000 pixels)

I haven't done much plumbing so I hope others will chime in on the easiest way to plumb this in.

For future reference see:
Please Resize Your Pictures to 1000 Pixels
http://simplysolar.supporttopics.com/post?id=6686613


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Both temperature rise and airflow are integral to comparing hot air collectors
alpinebigfoot

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Reply with quote  #13 
Great! hopefully some others chime in here. I have all my parts in and ready to go.. This is my last step!
SolarInterested

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Reply with quote  #14 
There's more on plumbing at

http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/SpaceHeating/DHWplusSpace/Plumbing.htm#DHWPlumbing

"Plumbing the Domestic Hot Water Preheat
To hook the solar water up to your existing house hot water system, you need to arrange things so that the cold water line going into your hot water heater first flows through the PEX coil heat exchanger to pick up solar heat.
The diagram below shows the arrangement.

A section is cut out of the the cold water line into the hot water heater. The cut out section is replaced by two T's and and a ball valve.

The open legs of the two T's are then connected to the ends of the PEX coil via two new lines each with a ball valve installed in it.

The three valves allow you to control whether you are using solar heated water or not.

For solar hot water, close top valve in the diagram below, and open the two lower valves. In this way cold water from the street flows through the PEX coil and is preheated by the solar heated water in the tank.

To bypass the solar heater, open the top valve, and close the two lower valves."







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Both temperature rise and airflow are integral to comparing hot air collectors
alpinebigfoot

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Reply with quote  #15 
i seen that before..I want mine automated. I have to leave the house to get to the basement.That would be useless to go out turn it on and off all the time. Unless i am not understanding that right?? There has to be a way to plumb it right before the tank or something for this system to work by itself.
SolarInterested

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Reply with quote  #16 
The valving shown in the diagram would normally be left alone except for maintenance. It's also just a schematic so locations are conceptual.

I am curious about your system. Can you provide some details? type of panels? layout? 

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Both temperature rise and airflow are integral to comparing hot air collectors
alpinebigfoot

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Posts: 14
Reply with quote  #17 
4x8ft. all copper collector, 1200ft pex coil, 4x4x4 storage tank,epdm liner, 1 inch thick poly board insulation, Caleffi control with 4 sensors, mcp655 pump
alpinebigfoot

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Reply with quote  #18 
Anyone? If i hook this up like the diagram i am worried that i will not have cold water then.. Ideas ? or will i have cold water ?
SolarInterested

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Reply with quote  #19 
I think this is what you have to do at your tank but it's such a tight space I don't know that you have the room. Cut the inlet pipe to your hot water tank at the yellow line and install two elbows for the feed to and from your heat exchanger (blue and red arrows).

alpinebigfoot2.jpg 

The earlier diagrams I linked to are for the connections at the tank to allow you to by-pass the heat exchanger should the need arise (maintenance).


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Both temperature rise and airflow are integral to comparing hot air collectors
alpinebigfoot

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Reply with quote  #20 
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it.. Do you see any flaws with my set up that i listed?  Also with the sensor in the collector should i keep that mid level or touching a pipe?
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