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Keith671

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Posts: 142
Reply with quote  #31 
Got some copper today and started to fix it to the box.  Went pretty good. Attached are some photos. One is of the boxes I painted the other night and two with the copper rough fit in. Copper uprights are on 3" centers and 60" long and I kept the return in the box, so inlet and outlet are on the bottom right corner. The other box I am going to build opposite, so the inlet and outlet will come out the bottom left corner. I then plan to run the main in between and tee to both. That way if something goes wrong with one I can still run the other. I found a box of aluminum absorber plates in my shed that my son in law must have bought when he put under floor heat in part of his house. I am going to see if he plans on using them. If not they are perfect for the collector, 24" long and 5" wide and fit perfect around the 1/2" copper. Plan on soldering it together tomorrow and see what happens. Later  

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Keith R. in PA.

EcoMotive

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Reply with quote  #32 
Lookin' good Keith. I see you have a knack for building neat and tidy. I'm looking forward to following your project to completion.

Lance in Newfoundland

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 “Only primitives & barbarians lack knowledge of houses turned to face the winter sun.” 
Greek philosopher Aeschylus


Keith671

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Reply with quote  #33 
Ecomotive,
Please don't look at all my junk in garage. I see how neat all your stuff looks, even the wiring by your entrance box looks organized. I really enjoy the stuff you post. I just read the article you wrote about the window box with the soffit in. I didn't realize you could use it. I am planning to build a hot air box before winter. I have a space in front of my front porch that is about 3 feet high and 21 feet long facing southeast. I was planning on the downspout version, but you guys may have a better idea. I put a couple of photos in an album of my house looking to the north. Take a look, the space is below the porch where the lattice is. Thanks for the comments.

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Keith R. in PA.
solardan1959

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Reply with quote  #34 
Keith,
How about using the triangle above the porch, It would get more sun and not sure where you live but it would also keep it above the snow.  Here is a plan and simulated drawing.


I like the concrete area to the right but it may get blocked by afternoon sun.  Your workshop looks pretty clean to.  The copper layout looks nice any photos of the aluminum absorber plates?
Dan

Edited 6/30/13,  After Scotts comments below, In the original design it was planned to use screen, it would have screen frames inserted in each channel.  But in thinking about it downspouts would work really well in this design.  The corner bits in each channel would work well as a plenum to turn the air though I may insert a rounded channel )  right at the corners to help the air flow.
Dan
Scott Davis

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Reply with quote  #35 
Hi Keith,

In addition to soffit, another good option besides downspouts is window screen.  Window screen and soffit both perform very well in side by side testing.  Depending on your preference, you might prefer screen for lower cost and ease of construction.

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solardan1959

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Reply with quote  #36 
added a few comments to my original post about the triangle panel design.
Dan
Keith671

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Reply with quote  #37 
Thanks Dan for the input. I worked on the collector Sat. and soldered the pipes together, and water tested for leaks ,no leaks! I also washed the absorbers and painted the groove where the copper will be in contact. I had to quit early to go to my wife's class reunion, oh what fun.  I worked on it a little this evening and got three rows of the absorber plates installed. Ran out of screws. Using 1 5/8" deck screws. I was afraid dry wall screws would rust a lot easier. Attached are some photos of the progress. Two are close-ups of the absorber plates. They are factory made with the name Rehau stamped on them. They are only 5" wide, which worked perfectly for my 3" spacing.  I also added the photos to my album.

Attached Images
jpeg 100_0121_(1024x768).jpg (470.02 KB, 78 views)
jpeg 100_0122_(1024x768).jpg (427.35 KB, 80 views)
jpeg 100_0123_(1024x768).jpg (469.29 KB, 80 views)
jpeg 100_0124_(1024x768).jpg (453.64 KB, 76 views)
jpeg 100_0125_(1024x768).jpg (622.37 KB, 81 views)
jpeg 100_0126_(1024x768).jpg (650.03 KB, 78 views)
jpeg 100_0142_(1024x768).jpg (404.58 KB, 78 views)
jpeg 100_0143_(1024x768).jpg (319.01 KB, 76 views)
jpeg 100_0144_(1024x768).jpg (319.89 KB, 79 views)


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Keith R. in PA.

GaryBIS

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Posts: 243
Reply with quote  #38 
Hi Keith,
Don't know if you are using a little silicone in the absorber grooves or not?


I think its a good idea for reasons outlined here: 
http://www.builditsolar.com/Experimental/PEXCollector/SmallPanelAirVsSilicone.htm

Basically while the silicone is not a great conductor, its still is ten times better a conductor than air, so any tiny air gaps that get filled with silicone will conduct much better.  It also provides a good flexible bond between the fin and the tube, and it keeps any condenstation out of the gap providing some extra protection against corrosion in addition to the paint.


Once the silicone sets, the screws don't make much difference, because the silicone bonds the absorber fin to the copper quite well (this takes quite a while with the silicone between two metal surfaces) -- so, if the screws rust it does not make much difference.


Gary
Keith671

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Posts: 142
Reply with quote  #39 
Gary,
Yes I put a small bead of silicone down each side of copper pipe and a small bead in groove of plate before screwing them down. I don't know if you can see it or not but I have coil flashing behind all the pipes. I was going to use a small strip behind each pipe, but as they are only 3" apart I put in a 24" wide piece. I have read the link before and this is how I did it.
Thanks


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Keith R. in PA.
Keith671

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Reply with quote  #40 
Gary,
One other question. I am butting them up end to end. Should I leave a gap between them for expansion?

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Keith R. in PA.
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