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jawbone

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Reply with quote  #11 
They do seem to run a bit longer than needed - I should put a thermometer in the box just to see the difference. Each panel (6) has a thermometer so i can compare the output - just to check the lag time.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #12 
"Normally" the snap switch is located near the warmest part of the collector, which is usually near the top exit of the collector. There shouldn't be too much of a lag time with your switch. Moving air will warm or cool the snap switch pretty quickly, especially if you place the switch directly in the airflow. That is why very early and late in the day, the collector fan cycles on and off several times, until the internal collector temps stabilize. 

I really like the idea of allowing access to the switch from the outside. Maybe an insulated access panel, or short jumper wires so while the switch may be inside the collector box, the electric connections could be external . Be careful to make any external electrical connections waterproof!!!

Greg in MN
Bert

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Reply with quote  #13 
I like differential temperature controllers. They may cost more than a snap switch but you just run a tiny sensor into the box and wire it to the controller wherever you want to put it.
Also you have more control of when it comes on and shuts off. It makes the solar collector more efficient.

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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #14 
Bert-

I meant to ask you if the controller sensor wires can be extended and if there is a way to calibrate the sensors, if needed? I will always have long sensor runs for the intake as my collectors need to extend away from the house. As it is the far end of my collector is about 25' from the window plus any distance added to the controller location.

As far as cost, extra controller sensors are only about $7 each. Compare that to either a wired or wireless thermometer, not to mention the batteries needed.

Greg in MN
Bert

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Reply with quote  #15 
Yes. Mine are extended up to 40'.  You can adjust the reading in the Grizzly GaiaMoto controller in the settings for each sensor. Just put the sensor next to a known accurate one and then adjust the temp up or down.  Do this with the wire length/type you will use.

The controller defaults to 1000 ohm sensors but I change mine to 10k sensors sense it let's you choose from several types.
I figure with a 10K sensor the long wire would have less of an effect on the sensor since it would be a faction of the resistance of the sensor. Probably a few ohms.

Also my other controller only uses 10K sensors so if this one goes I can use it as a backup without changing sensors in Winter.

I haven't tried calibrating the sensors that only monitor the temps ( not connected to the controller) but if you wanted to you could probably add resistors in series. Sounds like a time consuming job though.





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Bert K.
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stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #16 
I agree. I've extended the sensor leads on 10000 ohm sensors, the three wire sensors on some differential controllers, and the digital sensors, with nary a problem.

Given the choice I'd go with some electronic means over mechanical, as you get a lot more flexibility.

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Willie, Tampa Bay
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