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Bert

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Reply with quote  #1 
You can use a 120v fan with a snap switch without running 120v inside the collector.
Use a relay like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087ZTN08/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Of course you can use a conventional relay but I like this solid state one.

Just run the low voltage side through the snap switch, then through the low voltage supply such as a transformer or a solar panel.  Could even be a battery if you keep it charged.

Wire the AC through the AC side of the relay and then through the fan.

The snap switch will trigger the relay thus supplying AC to the fan.

You can also use this with a differential controller to keep high voltage away from it. That's what I did with mine.  I use my solar panels/batteries to supply the low voltage side.

Wish that I had an easy way to draw the diagram to illustrate this.

120v-HOT -----------RELAY-AC-SIDE---------FAN--------120V GROUND

12V ---------------LOW-VOLTAGE-SIDE-RELAY------SNAP SWITCH -------LOW-VOLTAGE-GROUND

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Bert K.
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stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #2 
A small transformer would work as well. It would give you 12V AC but neither the snap switch or the relay should have a problem with that.  

I don't think batteries would be required with PV power; if there's not enough power from the PV panel to operate the relay, you're not going to get any heat anyway.  

In my experiments with Arethas and hot water collectors, a PV panel was all that was needed, it even powered the pumps and the fan in the Aretha

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Bert

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Reply with quote  #3 
Yes, if you are only using the solar panel for the collector then shouldn't need a battery.

Here's a crude drawing. I don't have artist skills. [smile]

SNAP-RELAY.jpg 


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Bert K.
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stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #4 
Personally I think I'd dispense with the complication and run 120v to the snap switch.

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Bert

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Reply with quote  #5 
It's easy. Especially if you have to run the wires a long distance. 
It all depends on preference though.

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Bert K.
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jawbone

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Reply with quote  #6 
I don't put the switch in the panel. I build a separate little box with the snap switch in it. It controls an outlet that I plug the fans into etc. I can then move or adjust the switch without disturbing anything too much.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #7 
Jawbone-

I'm confused... which happens often. But if the switch isn't inside the panel enclosure, how is the switch activating at the appropriate temperatures? At the very least, I would think the face of the snap switch should be inside. Do you have any photos or drawing to show us what you mean?

Greg in MN
stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #8 
Where do you locate the box?

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jawbone

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Reply with quote  #9 
Hi guys - I build an approx. 5" square, plywood box, one inch styo in back and a plexi cover. Painted black, inside and out, switch positioned centrally in the box, then I position it similar to the panel. This way if I want to change switches, change angles for earlier or later switching, it's pretty simple. 
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stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #10 
So you're not actually measuring the temperature inside the collector, but rather inside the box? A potential problem I can see is that the collector is cooled by the air running through it, while the box is not. I don't see how the temperature in the box would track the temperature in the collector.

Without the cooling the box is going to get a lot hotter than the collector. This might be fine in the morning when both are starting uot cold, but in the evening or in marginal conditions the box would tend to stay hot longer than the collector, causing the collector to blow cold air. Adjusting the position of the box as you said probably helps somewhat.

I think I'd use something like this: https://www.zoro.com/johnson-controls-line-volt-mechanical-tstat-120-to-277vac-a19aba-40c/i/G5063037/

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