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Scott Davis

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Reply with quote  #41 
Hi Dave,

In Gary's test he compared CPVC risers with copper risers.  Electrical conduit would eventually rust.  The way we attached the flashing without bending is really easy, but I agree, metal tape might enhance the heat transfer and would be well worth a test!

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pftg41

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Reply with quote  #42 
 hi Scott 

he was using cpvc conduit as it is cheaper and has bell ends and a uv inhibitor in it and is grey so almost pre primed this 1 inch on center
SolarInterested

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Reply with quote  #43 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pftg41
... in Gary's collector he spaced the electrical conduit risers i think 1 inch apart and thus not needing the fins


Dave which Gary are you referencing? Gary from the BuildItSolar site did not use electrical conduit:

http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/WaterHeating/CPVCCollector/CPVCCollectorTest.htm#Collector

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Keith671

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Reply with quote  #44 
I don't think electrical conduit is cpvc, I think it is pvc, which will not take as much heat.
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pftg41

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Reply with quote  #45 
yeah sorry guys was getting confused with the the solar pool heater 

so much info to read 


thanks

Dave
Scott Davis

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Reply with quote  #46 
We are pushing the heat tolerance envelope enough with CPVC, which is rated to 200F at 75 PSI.  I would not recommend PVC, which has a lower rating.
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jwnova99

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Reply with quote  #47 
Hi Scott,

Love your solar collector. I need to build one to help heat 3000 gallons of water stored in my solar greenhouse. I have some questions:

1. In your video what month was it taken?
2. Can you give me some idea of how your system performs in the middle of winter?
3. Do you run the supply and return lines underground and insulated?
4. How does your system ensure there are no frozen pipes (or frozen connectors between ground and panel) prior to starting the pump each morning.
5. How does your system run during cloudy days?
6. Do you have a thermostat that runs your pump?
6a. Which type?
6b. Is it set to a certain degree or does it take into account a range above your inside tank?

My greenhouse is built into the hillside, poured concrete, insulated on 3 sides, and uses solexx (R factor of 2) for the glazing. The north roof and sides are roughly R10. The water tanks are built into the concrete back wall and currently gains or looses about 1 deg per day depending on the sunshine and temperatures. I assume the water level is equal to the concrete or daily average of the concrete. I still gain heat on a sunny day with High/Low temps of 50/40. High/Low of 40/30 with cloudy days and I loose heat. I need a way to capture more heat outside the greenhouse on good days and funnel it in. 

Thank you,
Jason
West Virginia

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solardan1959

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Reply with quote  #48 
jwnova99,

   Wish you had more photos but from what I see it looks pretty nice.  You could easily add a stand alone collector to heat the water and use it all year long especially there in WV as long as you get good sun all day long. (greens a bit bright though)
Dan
Scott Davis

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Reply with quote  #49 
Hi Jason,

Thanks for your photos!  More would be welcome (it would be great it you would start a new thread in the Member Projects section).  Responses inserted:

1. In your video what month was it taken?

**  If I remember correctly, mid October.

2. Can you give me some idea of how your system performs in the middle of winter?

**  the 64 square feet of CPVC collector pretty typically raises the fluid temp 15F at a gallon per minute through the winter.

3. Do you run the supply and return lines underground and insulated?

**  Yes
[s8]

4. How does your system ensure there are no frozen pipes (or frozen connectors between ground and panel) prior to starting the pump each morning.

**  I use a mixture of water and environmentally friendly glycol.  Another option, if you can slope all the way to your thermal storage tank is to do a drain back system.

5. How does your system run during cloudy days?

**  Sunny = excellent, mostly sunny with occasional cumulus = very good, a very thin overcast = marginal, solid overcast = no useable heat.

6. Do you have a thermostat that runs your pump?
6a. Which type?

**  I have a differential controller.
6b. Is it set to a certain degree or does it take into account a range above your inside tank?

**  It comes on I think 10 degrees above tank temperature and shuts off at 4 degrees above tank temperature (I don't remember exactly).

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jwnova99

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Reply with quote  #50 
Thank you very much guys. I'll start a build thread as soon as I'm able or please transfer all my information over to one.

I wasn't sure the image links from Facebook were going to work. Here are some more. Dimensions are 48 x 24 outside. Faces the sun. 45 deg slope. 18' ridge from floor. 1.5" insulation on concrete then back-filled into the hillside. Instead of back filling the front, the front wall is insulated and we installed an outside grow bed as the back fill. The glazing is Solexx 3.5mm duel wall. Seal plates are treated lumber, most exposed lumber including beams and 8x8 posts are Cypress, Rear ceiling joist are plain pine lumber painted white.

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30' x 5' grow bed. Eleven ADS drain pipes connect the two barrels. I'm installing a circulation fan next week that will take warm moist air from the top of the greenhouse and run it through the bed. Heating the soil and dehumidifying the air at the same time.

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I might be better off painting my concrete inside black to capture more heat or install my solar collectors inside the greenhouse near the back or peak.


Thank you again,
Jason




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