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Gerry_L

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Reply with quote  #31 

I am new and don't know if this is the correct place to ask, but I am excited about idea and have to ask.

I am building a 10x24 greenhouse that I want to use through the winter. I plan to use 30 gal drums filled with water to help get me through the cold nights. Do you think that the CPVC collector (possibly doubled ) could heat the water enough to get me through the night in upstate NY? I planned on using as many barrels (painted black) as I can fit in the greenhouse.

I can use all the help I can get.

SolarInterested

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Reply with quote  #32 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry_L

I am new and don't know if this is the correct place to ask, but I am excited about idea and have to ask.

Don't worry about the correct place to post - the moderators can move it later if need be.

Quote:
I am building a 10x24 greenhouse that I want to use through the winter. I plan to use 30 gal drums filled with water to help get me through the cold nights. Do you think that the CPVC collector (possibly doubled ) could heat the water enough to get me through the night in upstate NY? I planned on using as many barrels (painted black) as I can fit in the greenhouse.

I can use all the help I can get.



If you haven't already you should look at the BuildItSolar site

Sunspace and Solar Greenhouse Design and Construction
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Sunspace/sunspaces.htm

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Both temperature rise and airflow are integral to comparing hot air collectors
solardan1959

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Reply with quote  #33 
Gerry_L,
   
Several things to think about, how big is your space, how big of a collector do you plan  to build, and your biggest problem, the lack of insulation in a greenhouse ( or translated, how much heat do you need).
   One 4X8 collector will heat 2 to 3 of your 30 gallon barrels.  But with no insulation is that enough to keep it above freezing through the night?
   Solar heating is only good when the sun is out, you will need backup if what ever is inside is important to you.  You may get through the first or even second night but sooner or later you will need backup heat.
   But your green house is a big collector so if you can store all the heat from the hot water collector you should do well and provide most of the needed heat.
Dan
xactdude

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Posts: 44
Reply with quote  #34 
The closer configuration has been on my mind too.  In my mind I was comparing the increased number of pipes to using crushed ice compared to cubes.  the more surface area the liquid touches, the greater the amount of energy transfer. 
Is the 6" spacing due to cost? or is there no better results with 3" spacing?
Gerry_L

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Posts: 2
Reply with quote  #35 

Dan,

Thank you. My current plan is for an 8 foot high A frame design built on a 4 foot insulated wall. The water barrels would be inside the greenhouse against the wall. Plants would be in pots or trays on shelves well above the ground. The frame covering would be double wall polycarbonate to help retain heat. I will likely have to use propane as back up heat. It looks like I need to increase the size of the collector beyond 4x8. A 4x16 collector would fit well against the base wall for the A frame but still might not be enough. I need to get some proof of concept out of the way (build a collector and determine the temp decay of the barrels). Thanks again for the help.

The more I learn, the more the plan changes.

SolarInterested

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Reply with quote  #36 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xactdude
... Is the 6" spacing due to cost? or is there no better results with 3" spacing?
If you're asking about the CPVC it's fairly new and the optimum spacing is still being tested.

Scott tested at about 3" spacing http://simplysolar.supporttopics.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1275726469&postcount=1

Gary at about 2" spacing
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/WaterHeating/CPVCCollector/CPVCCollectorTest.htm

Dan with a double layered staggered design which gives something less than 2" spacing (approximately 1" Dan?) http://simplysolar.supporttopics.com/post/solardans-water-heater-test-6379660

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Both temperature rise and airflow are integral to comparing hot air collectors
mortensonk9kennels

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Reply with quote  #37 
I am new to solar but I am trying to build a CPVC water Heater for my dog kennel building, I have watched numerous video's on you tube and see different designs there, could someone please instruct me on why a manifold built with t's is more beneficial than one that is built with elbows to circulate the water. I know you have more friction with elbow's over t's , but do you get even water flow with the T's ??
SolarInterested

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Reply with quote  #38 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mortensonk9kennels
I am new to solar but I am trying to build a CPVC water Heater for my dog kennel building, I have watched numerous video's on you tube and see different designs there, could someone please instruct me on why a manifold built with t's is more beneficial than one that is built with elbows to circulate the water. I know you have more friction with elbow's over t's ,
That's the main problem with a single channel serpentine layout - more resistance to flow.

Quote:
... but do you get even water flow with the T's ??
If your flow enters at the bottom and exits on the opposite corner (ie bottom left and top right) the water travels the same distance regardless of which riser/hiser it flows through. Of course pipe and fittings must be the same size along all paths.

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Both temperature rise and airflow are integral to comparing hot air collectors
GaryBIS

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Posts: 243
Reply with quote  #39 
Hi,
I've done a couple tests on flow distribution in collectors that use the manifold and riser construction.  These collectors both used the supply on one lower corner and the return on the opposite upper corner.

This is one of the tests: http://www.builditsolar.com/Experimental/CopperAlumCollector/FlowTest.htm

The other test was an 11 ft wide collector and showed similar results.

Both tests showed pretty even flow.

One detail is that its tempting to use an elbow on the last riser coming off the manifold since there would be no connection beyond the last riser, but its better to use a T and cap it.  If you use an elbow, it will have less flow resistance, which will result in more flow for that riser.

Gary
pftg41

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Posts: 11
Reply with quote  #40 
hi guys first post been reading as much as i can trying to learn here had a quick idea

in Gary's collector he spaced the electrical conduit risers i think 1 inch apart and thus not needing the fins

then i thought why don't we use the metal tape from hvac duct to fill the void this stcks very well and would join everything together in a solid flat surface

of metal it is also cheap to buy no caulk needed


any thoughts 


thanks

Dave



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