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Scott Davis

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Reply with quote  #21 
Hi Jannie,

Great thoughts.  I'm still not convinced that Amazing Goop isn't a possible alternative.  I built two, 4' X 8' panels and Goop almost worked.  There was just one tiny spot along one header that apparently did not have a generous enough amount of glue, which leaked when pressurized.  I had also had trouble getting a good seal at the corners. 

Construction is not my forte and I suspect someone with a little more experience and care could overcome these problems.  That said, it sure would be wonderful to come up with a design approach for folks who are all thumbs, like me, that can be easily constructed.

In terms of heat gathering performance, the coroplast worked extremely well for the couple days I had it up and running.

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Scott Davis

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Reply with quote  #22 
Hi Xactdude,

I missed your post until now.  The glass sandwich is an interesting concept!  In addition to the other challenges you mentioned, I suspect that it would add significantly to the weight and cost.

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xactdude

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Reply with quote  #23 
hey Scott,
I have been playing with different glue ups also on the colorplast.  tried goop, vulcum polyurethane, spray adhesive, nothing would hang in there.  i will say the polyurethane caulk seemed to do better than the goop.  I have one more product to try and will let you know what happens.  Its called novaflex and is made for vinyl window applications.
However I did learn one thing, it wont work as shown in my photo, the colorplast must extend outside the glass just enough to get a bead on it.  trying to seal it sandwiched, doesn't let air in for the any adhesive to cure. 

mj
Scott Davis

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Reply with quote  #24 
Hi MJ,

Before you apply Goop, try roughing up the surface with sand paper and then apply ammonia and let it dry.  Then apply Goop.  That seemed to make a big difference.

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cwwilson721

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Reply with quote  #25 
I had a few thoughts on the "glass sandwich" idea, specifically, about the collapse potential,  and the sealing.

Sealing:
  • To the pipe(s), use a gasket on the glass, or the stuff they were using in the picture (Looks a bit messy to me, but that's me)
  • For edges, a thin weatherstrip in between the panes. It will compress, but not to much. Get weatherstripping (I'm fairly sure there's something out there that can take the heat) that will be approximately the same thickness as the 'under pressure' Coroplast panel.Use caulking or whatever to seal the outside of the glass 'sandwich'
  • Make sure the water goes into the Coroplast channels, and NOT between the glass/Coroplast/glass sandwich. 220+ degrees, plus unrestrained water=steam=pressure=GLASS BOMB
  • If sealed properly, the Coroplast needs no adhesive at all. Just "gasketed" between the glass and the Cloroplast, and the glass and the pipe(s) seal will insure no leaks. If needed, trim a little of the Cloroplast so the "corners" of the sandwich will be sealed.
Collapse:
  • Hopefully will be partially mitigated by the weatherstripping in the above part. 
  • To prevent total collapse, insert wire in 2-3 channels all the way thru the panel.
Weight and cost can be an issue. But since right now we are trying to figure out how to get water thru this contraption, as a testing rig, it may work
cwwilson721

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Reply with quote  #26 
We could reduce a TON of weight (glass sandwich with 2 glass panels, and a big collector, weight would become a LARGE issue) from the sandwich idea, alot of money, and, in case of catastrophic failure, would save injury,too, if we:
  • Instead of using full-length panes of glass (or even glass/metal) to cover top and underneath, just use a strip (2-3" or so) of glass on each side.
  • Caulk/seal the glass to the Cloroplast, with the weatherstripping and wire inserts, too, then seal/adhere the piping to the glass. GOT to be easier
I think this approach might be a good compromise between sealability and weight/cost
involute reflection

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Reply with quote  #27 
I've been wanting to make one of these for years, I finaly started .
I used 1/2" pvc and hard as nails adhesive and used 44"x 72" coroplast recycled from a job, this will be a drain-back system using a centrifugal bilge pump connected directly to a 64 watt panel and pumped into a 55 gallon blue barrel for now, I hope to have it running by next Wednesday.
involute reflection

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Reply with quote  #28 
It leaked, but it heated 2 gallons/minute 6 f so it has good efficiency 72"x42"@75w/sq'=1550 watts.
1 kw second is about equal to 1 btu.

I will plug both ends by squirting 3/4" of goop into the channels and then cut a new channel across the top and perpendicular to the channel, then clamping a 2" wide flat plate on both sides (one with a manifold channel) to increase gasket area and clamping pressure.
I just need to locate the proper flat plate.
SolarInterested

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Reply with quote  #29 
Good stuff. Some photos or diagrams would be nice too.
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Garage_Hermit

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Reply with quote  #30 
Just adding to the database - I found out about this "miracle stuff" today, maybe it could be of use ?

Only a small  investment - if it doesn't work, you can melt it up again and start over on another project !

http://www.amazon.com/Thermomorph-Moldable-Plastic-Pellets-17-8/dp/B00D3LAZ9O

G_H


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