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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #31 
Bruce-

Inkbird also sells a controller for just under half the price of the ITC-308 if $$$ is an issue or you need to add something to your "list". Their ITC-1000 has much of the same settings. It's not plug and play, but the install/mounting is still simple, is more versatile, and looks really professional. Matt(mranum) installed a really nice control box for his collector here:

http://simplysolar.supporttopics.com/post/my-version-of-a-zp-7939709?&trail=10


Greg in MN

Bruce

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Reply with quote  #32 
Thanks, Guys!  I hesitate to undo my transformer and relay switch set up for an electronic controller, but I might do that after I try different snap switches...I already have a 110/90 and a 80/65 so I will play with them, then probably do it right if everything else works well. [rolleyes]

I finally got some decent painting weather...we have had the wettest and hottest summer here in PA this year. During the worst of it, I made my 6 4'x6' screen frames with dadoed lap joints and fit them into the box.  I got the inside of the box, screen frames and dividers all primed and painted flat black with Glidens exterior paint.  Some of the pics show shine, but the paint has taken on very low luster now that it is dry.
IMG_0809.jpg  IMG_0812.jpg 
I got a good deal on the 50 foot roll of screen on Amazon and am now ready to assemble the screens...all I need to find is someplace clean and reasonably clean that I can lay the frames flat to stretch the screen and stable it on.  I want to screen the entire box with the intake and output duct takeoffs securing the screen with holes cut to allow airflow.  I tried it with a quickly made prototype screen and there seems to be enough flex in the black aluminum screen to hold it down with half of the tabs on the duct takeoff.  It will take a lot of sloppy silicone caulk work and smoothing which I hope to paint to make it look decent. IMG_0813.jpg 

gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #33 
Bruce-

Seeing a large black surface like that reminds me of Road Runner painting a tunnel on the side of a mountain and Wiley E. Coyote getting run over by the train coming out of it. 

Starting to get the itch to start to start my latest build myself. Every year I plan to start about this time of year, and every year life gets in the way of my build. Go figure...


Greg in MN
Bruce

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Reply with quote  #34 
Back to school and fall sports has kept me busy, but I had a day off and worked a little on the ductwork.  Removed a window pane and fitted two layers of ISO to port my intake duct.  The fan assembly sits on the frame on the sill and I will have two 45's and about a foot of straight connecting them...short ducts! Whoever said I have room to work in between the collector and the house makes me laugh every time I have to get my 6'3" 300 pound, 62 YO self back there to do something!
IMG_0822.jpg 

gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #35 
Ha-

Crisco is your friend...

The basement window my heaters enter the house through are beneath a 2' cantilevered overhang that is roughly 15" above the ground. To complicate things further the ground slopes downward towards the house. It's kinda like working under a car. You can't turn sideways, which means you have to do a lot of the connecting work one handed. The nice thing is that once the ducts installed, you shouldn't have to access the back for several years. Mine has to be accessed twice yearly.

You may not want to finalize your duct connections to the house until the unit has been properly broken and any smells have dissipated. A couple of posts back you mentioned having a couple of different snap switches to try out. Do you have a way to change out the snap switch without having to remove the cover? Another idea might be to use an adjustable snap switch. Only a hole small enough for a screwdriver is needed to change the setting. 

Greg in MN
dbc

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Reply with quote  #36 
On my very first collector (which is now leaning against the fence in the back yard), I wasn't sure what temp range snap-disc would work best, so I installed two with different ranges, a 120/110 and a 110/90.  One side of each snap disc was wired to a SPDT toggle switch (other conductors were wired together), so I could select which snap disc was in-circuit from inside.

My collector output dumps into an occupied space, so I didn't want "too-cool" air blowing around.  This is why I included the 120/110.  I ended up using the 110/90 pretty much all the time, since the 120/110 shut off too much, forfeiting a lot of useful heat, and the 90 degree air still felt pretty good when it was cold outside.  So - the 2-disc setup was sort of a waste in my case, but for a space you occupy only occasionally, like a garage, workshop or basement, it might be useful.
gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #37 
Wiring the collector with two switches is a great idea, especially since the output temps with a single fan is unknown at this point. A second fan could then be added easily, if needed should the output temps be too high.
Bruce

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Reply with quote  #38 
I worked a little on the ductwork again.  I am going to hook up the fan and intake duct, but leave the output duct open to vent outside for a while until everything is dry and clean. I have decided to not replace the storm windows with plexiglass and cut a hole in it.  Instead I am going to raise the bottom half of the storm (to the upper latch position) and cut some scraps of 1 inch ISO into the opening with a hole in it for the ducts. This will do for now and let me hook up the fan to avoid any overheating...I hope.  I can also remove the ISO and duct and close the storm window until I am ready to start heating season in October.  My new 6 x 12 white tarp came yesterday so I will be able to cover the front with one piece now.  

I am using the 110/90 snap switch to start anyhow.  I do plan to install it near the 8 inch ductwork collar so that I can access it from the back of the box.  I see an adjustable snap or a controller with a probe in my future to keep the settings where I will be happy with the results and play around a little to see what works best.  I do know that I have 140 degree readings off the surface of the back with no screens or glazing on the box.  Of course the ambient temps have been in the 80's and even 90's here lately.  
Bruce

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Reply with quote  #39 
Short ducts are not easy to assemble...not much play to work the joints! I only took 6 inch long and 8 inch long pieces of straight duct.
IMG_0828.jpg 
Got the output set up to go after vacation and some drying and airing this month. It will require over two feet of straight duct!
IMG_0829.jpg

Bruce

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Reply with quote  #40 
Here is on of the three rear screens with one layer of black aluminum screen attached.     And then a second layer
IMG_0848.jpg IMG_0849.jpg   

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