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Bert

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Reply with quote  #51 
Yeah, we won't be planting there until I get done with it, but we want to plant along the back and the opposite side. We took some junky bushes out and need something there.
I'm going to try the frameless approach with springs. The hinges may be too big to fit, but the coils springs would fit fine.
I don't see a problem, but if so I can always add frames.

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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #52 
I think this is closer to what I may do.

zp-top-view2.jpg
Not sure if I should bother with the optional screen or just leave that clear.
I may need more room for the springs.

The main screens would be fasten to a flat bar just past the slot and the springs to that. The other side of the springs would hook onto the rods.

Will have to experiment with the number of springs to make the screen tight without ripping them. 


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Bert K.
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Steve33

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Reply with quote  #53 
what is zero pass? Is this hot air? Is the controller basically a thermostat?
gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #54 
Hi Steve-

The ZeroPass is a solar hot air heater that is very efficient and easy to build. It is similar to the common 2-screen SAH, but instead of the air passing through two layers of screen the air passes between two layers of screen like this:

ZeroPass Solar Heater.jpg 

This design has a few advantages over the 2-screen in that it has less air resistance since the air doesn't have to pass through any screens. It allows for thinner profile. It continually heats the air the entire time it is in contact with the screen surfaces, not just when the air passes through the screen layers. This means your can run your ZP collector at much higher velocities which are more efficient due to greater heat collection.

The snap switch is a simple switch that turns the fan on at a set temperature. By automating a collector it will turn on only when there is a proper temperature inside the collector. More sophisticated switches are adjustable and some even have an alarm should the collector get too hot.

Greg in MN

Bert

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Reply with quote  #55 
Most people use a snap switch as their controller. This seems to work great in most cases. It turns on the fan when a preset temperature is reach such as 90 or 100 degrees. Then it shuts the fan off when it drops down to 80 or so. There are some that you can adjust the temperature startup to a certain degree.

A differential controller works different. It doesn't care what the actual temperature is as much as the difference between the two.

You have more control of when the fan comes on and off. Usually you have a wide range of options as far as temperature. Many will give you other information such as voltage, time on etc

A differential will give you the option of squeezing out extra heat that a snap switch may not. The output may feel cold if you set this too low but you will still be gaining heat.

Let's say you want to heat your unheated garage. Your garage may be 40 degrees. With a snap switch you would have to wait until your collector reaches as least 90 degrees. With a differential controller you could set it to come on at  10 degree difference and the fan with come on at 50 degrees.

Snap switches are much cheaper though and still are used a lot.


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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #56 
Beautiful day today. Got some painting done. May get a chance to start putting it together tomorrow.

What's a good option for the braces under the glazing to support it and on top if needed to keep it from bowing out?

I was thinking wood under to screw the H channels to and maybe steel bars on top. Wish I could think of something easy and cheap that work well and look good. LOL


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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #57 
I screwed down ⅛" aluminum bar stock to cover the glazing seams and screwed into the screen frames which just happened to be directly under the glazing joints.[biggrin]  i didn't use the H-channels though. I had three screw in each. But early this spring my screw tore out of the wood screen frames due to the volume of air I was pushing through. The resulting 3" bulge allowed air to pass just under the cold glazing all the way to the output, killing performance. I ended up clamping 1x2's over the stripped out screw to hold things down until I can open things up for a repair/replacement. So if you use wood, you may want to reinforce it to keep any screw or bolts from tearing out. I think an aluminum angle could also be a better option to hold things down since it wouldn't bow out under pressure.

Greg in MN
Bert

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Reply with quote  #58 
I worked on the collector a bit today. I made corner brackets out of stud since they fit into the track nicely.
I bent the stud flange straight on the side that the insulation will go so that it lays flat.

IMG_20160414_101548053_HDR.jpg  black-corner.jpg 

It seem to make the corners easy to do and will probably do that where the two 10' tracks go together.
corner.jpg 

IMG_20160415_133348252_HDR.jpg

I just put a couple of screws in to hold it in place temporary. I wanted to see about spacing and what I may need under the frame at the top and bottom.

That's half the length. Doesn't look like 10' across but it is.

IMG_20160415_133340285_HDR.jpg 

I was lazy and took these with my phone. Most of them I had to shoot blind as the sun was so bright the screen was black.
 



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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #59 
Shooting black objects, even with a good camera, can be a challenge. I took several pics of my ZP build, but everything was pre-painted black so you couldn't make out any details. So the stud forms the corner and the track simply meets at the corner with no bends in it at all? Interesting Solution... Less waste too. Will this be how you mate the two 10' sections together?  What will you be using to seal the corners from water, silicone?

Greg in MN
Bert

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Reply with quote  #60 
Yes, that's right. The tracks just meet and it seems really solid that way. I am using black 100% silicone to seal it. 

I was thinking of using the stud to join the two tracks as well. I do have to flatten the back flange where in insulation goes, but it isn't hard to do.

I may have to put something at the bottom. It's 1/8" gap. The top has about 3/8" gaps, so maybe rubber. I was going to use wood but not sure how it would stand up to the weather.

If I didn't have to attach anything to the frame I would just build it all on the wall. 


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Bert K.
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