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Bert

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Reply with quote  #41 
The gap would range from 0 to 3/8" down the clapboard. I was thinking of using this;
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-3-8-in-x-20-ft-Caulk-Saver-C21H/100067266
Tuck that in where I can and then caulking smoothly over that.

Not sure if the garage is insulated. That wall has paneling over it and sounds hollow.
Perhaps using a thick rubber membrane under the glazing will allow for a 1-1/4 gap for the screens. I will experiment with with that. That and the glazing being outside the track, may be enough.

I think the garage weather stripping may be too bulky in my case.

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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #42 
Is it a good idea to use two layers of screen on the bottom layer?

Since my bottom layer is only 1/2" off the insulation, what about laying one layer on the insulation with one 1/2" above and then the top layer above that?  Or better to keep the bottom two together above the insulation?

How important is it to paint the screen? It's already black.



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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #43 
Bert-

Since very little air should move outside of the screen gap, I don't think a layer of screen laying on the insulation will do much, but it sure can't hurt. But two layers of screen on the bottom of the screen gap creates a denser and rougher layer for the air to pass in the screen gap. Also, less sun will pass through to the back of the collector and stay within the screen gap, which is where we want the solar energy to be transferred.

As far as painting the screens, I think painting helps to knock back the sheen that even black or charcoal screens have. And that means less reflections away from the screens layers. And since your screens are already black, it only takes a light dusting to knock back any shine. Take a look at a couple of samples below of black screen painted and unpainted:

IMG_0007.jpg 

CRW_0009.jpg 

Greg in MN

Bert

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Reply with quote  #44 
OK, I will give the screens a light spray. The pictures really show the difference. Also two layers of screen on the bottom of the screen gap seems to be the way to go.

Now if this snow and rain would stop.  Suppose to be in the sixties next week.

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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #45 
I'm trying to get a handle on some other spacing such as the plenum. Would 12" be OK?

zp-top-view.jpg 
Would there be any merit in running the top screen across as above?
What about having the duct come in at an angle like the dotted lines on each side of the word WALL above?  Would straight in be just as good?

Should I add a curve to the left side like above?




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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #46 
If this is the intake plenum the only thing I would wonder about would be if the screen close to the glazing would add any resistance as the intake air will be passing through the screen and back before entering the screen slot. Granted, the air in either plenum will be swirling around pretty good, so it may not make a difference.  The plenums couldn't be much smaller than 12" if using 8" ducts. Some duct ends have or need tabs that are use to attach the connector to the collector box.

I used the following transition ducts which I attached to the surface of the back side of the collector. It has a nice adhesive foam seal and screw holes for secure and very easy attachment.
http://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/ductwork/ductwork-fittings/6-flowtite-plain-each/p-1444432238020-c-14260.htm?tid=-2220702231718174783

The exhaust plenum may have some benefit from the added screen too. I had some across my exhaust plenum, but I had to rip it out when I had to make an adjustment to my snap switch.

Greg in MN
Bert

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Reply with quote  #47 
Thanks for the tip on the duct transition.
Would the size of the plenum have any effect on the performance or air resistance?  Maybe 14 to 18 inches?

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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #48 
Bert-

I don't think the size of the plenum has much affects resistance since the air is swirling around quite rapidly in all directions. And a larger plenum only takes away from potential screen surface area. I know Krautman entered the manifolds via the end of the collector allowing for a straighter path through the collector. Funny thing though, we had to add a deflector in front of the intake to make the flow of air even from side to side. Without the deflector, the middle of the center of the collector had a much stronger flow than the edges.

Greg in MN


Bert

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Reply with quote  #49 
I was worried about having to come in with the ducts from the back. Good to hear that it may be be a plus, at least for the even flow.
The weather is warming up and I should be able to get back to work on it. That is in between the yard work my wife has planned. 
We will be planting a few bushes and flowers, but may have to wait until the threat of frost is over for some of those.

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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #50 
Bert-

While having the airflow entering from the end MAY improve airflow. Consider that additional ducting and elbows will also add a great deal to the equivalent duct length. The deflector Krautman used is solely to redirect the strong stream of air that would shoot down the middle of the screen gap. Either entry point will work fine, although using stud track gives very little room for end entry. Both will create a virtual tornado in the manifolds.

I certainly wouldn't plant anything in front of the area next to the garage where the ZP is going. You'll need that space to work and it's a pain to have to avoid stomping on and around plants when doing any kind of work.

Greg in MN


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