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Thor

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Reply with quote  #21 
I was thinking the heat would be on the right side straight into the garage making 1 turn into the hallway/entry (4-5ft total run?).... cold air intake would be in the living area by the front door near the ceiling... the heat will naturally make its way into the living room by the sucking of the intake side.

But I do realize it is most important to do what the wife says!

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Bert

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Reply with quote  #22 
That is a possibility. I will know more when I get those areas cleared out. As long as it pulls the warm air through.

Yes. The wife is worried about where the vents will be. I have to try and hide them. The return in the living room is a good spot because it's hidden  and that's the cold side of the room facing the west wind.

BTW I measured the duct run from to return to where the collector input would be and it's about 22' less than I estimated. Still the elbows have me worried more. That is about the best distance I can get on that side.

For the other side I have the original option and your idea which is a good one. I was thinking about it some before.

Another idea is to run that side along the floor and up a few inches into the living room. The draw backs are that I would have to use rectangular duct there and build a step over it by the door. The floor may rob more heat as well.  Probably not worth it.






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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #23 
Here's the area for in return vent. Hidden somewhat at the top where the lighted area is at right.

IMG_20160401_112051590.jpg 

Started to clean the track. Glad I got 20 gauge. Flimsier than I thought.

IMG_20160401_115628329.jpg 


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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #24 
Talked with my wife and she's ok with the vent coming into the hallway by the garage.
There is an offset at the entry door to the house that makes it more complicated. Will still need the three elbows as far as I can see. 

Here's a diagram

TWO-DOORS.jpg 

There's about a foot between the doors. With that inside corners and the door jambs, the space between the studs would be tight for a vent.
May have to go above the door in this picture.

Two-Doors-pic.jpg 

The above is inside the house. The right door goes to the garage,
That looks like three elbows although the ductwork would be shorter. Hmmm?

The collector will be close to the corner, so maybe I can eliminate one elbow if I can slant the duct going up the wall.



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Bert K.
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Thor

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Reply with quote  #25 
hmmm... bummer the door is so close to the corner... that makes things not so ideal... tight elbows really lower CFM's.... with an 8" pipe, I try not to go less than a elbow with a radius of 36" in the cases where multiple elbows are needed... at least that's the logic I used for industrial dust collection systems.
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mranum

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Reply with quote  #26 
Looking forward to following this project! [thumb] I also have to agree that the flow into the entry way would be my first choice too.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #27 
I will find a way to enter the entry way without too much air restriction. Once I get going on it I think it will work it's way out.

I was wondering about the screen position. I was going to have the bottom screen 3/4" from the insulation and the top screen 3/4" from the glazing. Is 3/4" too close to the glazing?  Could I drop it all down a bit? Maybe 1/2" from the insulation and 1" from the glazing or even 7/8".

The weather cooled off here in Michigan. Too cold to paint. May be on hold a week or more. [frown]

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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #28 
If I could, I would back the upper screen away from the glazing as much as possible. While my testing showed no noticeable air escapes the screen gap, you still have a close proximity to a very cold surface. I would also build a deeper collector than the 3.5" stud track so I could have either more space between the back screen and/or add more insulation. My collector is very exposed to the frigid northern winds.

Greg in MN

mranum

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Reply with quote  #29 
Personally I would try and keep the front screen an inch from the glazing, the bigger gap means less cooling in my eyes. Mine is 5/8" off the back and the front screen is about an inch from the glazing. The way my top screen frame came out I had about a 1/4" gap between the screen frame and the glazing. Since my fan is pressurizing the gap I was getting some disruption right below the glazing. When I opened it up to move some temp sensors around I added a strip of EDPM weather stripping between the screen frame and the glazing. That seemed to make a "smoother" air flow and I noticed less movement of the screen themselves.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #30 
Matt-

Keep in mind you also used glass, which won't flex like the twin wall glazing Bert's using. Glass also doesn't have the R-value of the twinwall so a bit more space is probably good too. I had a minor blowout last month when some of the screws holding down the glazing trim stripped out. This allowed the flow of air to bypass the screen gap altogether and flow directly against the cold glazing. I was even using weather stripping, but the gap was far too large to seal with the bulged glazing. Performance dropped roughly 40% until I made some external braces to keep the glazing flat. I'll have to make a more permanent fix  before next season. If my collector was mounted on the side of the house like Bert's, I might consider a thicker box, But you would have to stack the stud track to achieve a deeper box. 

Greg in MN
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