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Bert

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Reply with quote  #1 
Well, I'm just about ready to start my first big collector, a ZP. I just picked up some of the material and already have enough insulation I believe.

P1030694.JPG 

Here is a mock up of about where it will be:

garage-zp-house2.jpg 

I will probably go with this spacing since I'm using 3-1/2 track and the 1" air space seem to work well for Greg.

ZP-side-view-dimensions.jpg  Here is the controller I probably will use.
Controller.jpg 

I have a lot to work out still such as frame or frameless screens and how to build them.

If you have any ideas or suggestions please let me know. I will be adding pictures as I go. May be a few days because of the weather. I want to clean and paint the metal tracks first. Not sure if they will rust sitting around.



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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Bert-

If I had to build my ZP over I would either use the thinner 5/16" thick aluminum screen frames, or frameless screens to save a little space and keep the screens a bit further from the glazing. While it is true that very little air leaves the screen gap channel, such close proximity to the cold glazing might have a detrimental effect. I would also use 8" ducts too, to help with overall breathing and the fact that longer duct runs will increase the flow resistance. But if you are simply entering and exiting through the garage walls, there won't be but a couple of feet of ducts. The optimal gap is yet to be decided, but will likely determined somewhat by the overall length of the unit as well as the CFM being used. My guess is 1"-1¼" is optimal for a 16' ZP, but yours is a bit longer. So unless you finish the build within the next week, Krautman may have some answers for you. He's pretty close to wrapping things up at least for the testing phase. 

How will you be using the controller? Will it turn the fan of and on at the temps of your choosing? Will it allow you to track and record heat output at any given time?

Greg in Mn
Bert

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Reply with quote  #3 
Forgot to mention that the collector will be 4x20' for 80 SQ feet.

Greg, I will be using 8" duct. I wish that it was just going into the garage, but I want to run it across the garage into the front room. This will force me to use more 90 degree turns than I would like.
It will have to run up and across the ceiling. The return can come in up there as it's hidden and my wife likes that idea.
The warm air out will most likely have to run down the opposite wall and in.

That's a couple more right angles then I would like. The large radius elbows are expensive so I was thinking about using two adjustable 90 degree elbows for each one set at 45 each. That would cut the cost in half and I would have a big radius that hopefully cuts down on the resistance. Not sure.

I should have time to wait and see how Krautman's gap turns out.

The fan is 740 CFM and the controller let's you adjust the temperature differential so you can choose between high efficiency or warmer output. It doesn't have logging but I was thinking about using this;
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RHIXWM6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2FR9PYZ7V0ZY&coliid=ILFKYRX6FVMKB&psc=1

It measures the ontime as well as power useage, etc with battery backup.

Also I will be adding several temperature sensors and displays to show the temps in various areas. Was thinking at the collectors beginning, middle and end as well as the air input from the house and the actual output into the house..  Maybe the outside temp.

Will be interesting to see the heat lost from the collector to the living room.




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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #4 
 I think your idea of using 2-45˚ bends will help. How long do you expect the duct runs to be? My original 8' ZP lost about 8-10 degrees from the exhaust manifold into the house. But the most airflow I ever had through it was 9MPH. And the ducts were 6" flex with R-6 insulation. They were also quite exposed to the wind. Yours won't be exposed, and they will be in an area warmer than the outside air. The current 16' ZP loses very little temperature since the air moves out, through the collector and back inside in less than two seconds due to the 22MPH breeze pushing through.

I sure wish I had a good way to track and record temps in my ZP. There aren't any good options that I've seen. Either too high a cost, or completely built from scratch(arduino), which may be beyond my ability.

Greg in MN

Bert

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Greg,

The intake duct will be about 28'  and the output about 36'. Just an estimate. I have to measure it. I was planing on putting insulation sleeves on them and see how it does. Add more later if necessary.  It probably stays above freezing in there most of the Winter.  At least there's no wind.

This is the controller from my current panel;
http://www.grizzlycontrols.com/controllers.html   a little pricey but not as bad as some I've seen.

It does log a lot of info. The software has the reset button right next to the refresh button. I'ved hit the reset button by accidents several times and lost what was there. [frown]  I think you can download the data into an excel file to save it.

It had a minor bug that gave false readings ever so often. It wouldn't last long. He probably fixed it by now.  He was hard to contact for support though.

I haven't found much in logging devices. At least that I could afford.



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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #6 
Bert-

The Gia-Moto you linked to says it does support data logging. You may want to check that as that would be a great feature since you have already made the investment. That's a little pricy, but not outrageous depending on how may extras would be needed. Are the sensors wireless or do they need to be connected via wires?

Your ducts will need to be insulated for sure, R-8 if possible. Will they all be solid ducts with insulation sleeves? Your duct runs are long, but using 8" ducts and being smart with the connections and elbows will help a great deal.

Greg in MN

Bert

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Reply with quote  #7 
Yes the sensors need wires on both controllers. I may switch them around.
Yes the ductwork will be solid. I was planning on put the sleeves on them. Maybe I will come up with an idea to shorten the duct length somehow.

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Bert K.
Michigan

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KevinH

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Reply with quote  #8 
If there is room inside the duct sleeve, a loose layer of Reflectix will help on the straight sections.

Kevin H
MN
gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #9 
Reflective would help, and should't make it much more difficult to insert into the sleeve. Might need to tape the leading edges that could catch. Bert, when you get to that point, I have a few tricks I learned about inserting the duct sections into the sleeve. Mistakes makes experts!

Greg in MN


Thor

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Reply with quote  #10 
Take lots of pics or videos!
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