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Bert

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Reply with quote  #51 
Hmmm, maybe if it's tight enough not to flap in the wind.
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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #52 
It was warm enough today to work in the garage. I made a gasket out of silicone caulk. I masked off an area, applied the caulk and sprayed it with grape seed oil. Then I put parchment paper over it and set plywood on top. Press down a bit to even it out and let it sit a while.

The parchment paper came off pretty good but there are a few rough edges.

silicone-gasket.jpg 

Since I have a door on the back the top glass will be semi-permanent. It will lay on this gasket and be fasten down. I want to have the option to remove it for cleaning and maintenance.

Hopefully I can get some more done after the gasket cures and doesn't smell anymore.



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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #53 
Bert-

I can't tell how large or thick the gasket is in the photo.

Here's a thought...

Cut a channel in a piece of wood to the size, shape and depth of the gasket desired with a router.
Lay the parchment paper in the channel.
Fill channel with silicone and cover with another sheet of parchment.
Place another board on top until cured.

If it worked, it would give you consistent and uniform gasket.

Greg in MN
Bert

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Reply with quote  #54 
The gasket is about 3/16" thick.   Roughly 3/4" wide.

I will give your idea a try if this one doesn't work. I believe it will seal OK. I also have a mating seal in the window frame.



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Bert K.
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Reply with quote  #55 
Bert,  The gasket looks real good - smooth and flat.  Don't see any oil 'residue' or voids, or evidence of contamination.  Maybe it even smells good?

Still trying to understand a couple details:  (1) Did you spread the silicone out before you sprayed it with oil?  (2) How did you get the edge so straight?  I assume some excess silcone 'blobbed over' onto the masked section.  Did you have to cut the edge free after it cured, or just pull up the masking tape?  (3) Looks like the gasket is permanently bonded to the wood surface; true?  Greg's idea would be slick if you need to have the gasket loose (removable, replaceable, etc.)

I did something similar when I replaced the weatherstripping on my 2x16 ZP, although I didn't use any release agent (grapeseed oil), and I used waxed paper instead of parchment paper.  My gaskets didn't have a nice straight edge like yours either, although I wasn't really trying for that, just to have a flat smooth top surface to seal the twin-wall.
Bert

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Reply with quote  #56 
Don,

I masked off the area and applied the caulk. After that I sprayed it with the oil. Then I put the paper on top and a flat piece of plywood and weighed it down.
The masking tape pulled off okay without cutting it. Probably because the caulk was thin enough.
It is permanently attached to the wood on the solar collector. 

This worked great the first time, but the second time I tried it I was low on oil and it wasn't as good. 
I wonder if soapy water would work even better.

I like Greg's idea too. May give that a try if needed. Could make thicker gaskets that way.

Looks like the weather may improve tomorrow. Hoping to get back to work on it.




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Bert K.
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dbc

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Reply with quote  #57 
Thanks Bert  -  Don C.
Bert

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Reply with quote  #58 
Started on the cart so that I can move this monster around.

solar-oven-cart.jpg 

Funny thing happened.

Even though I let the silicone seals dry out for days and they felt dry, the darn thing is now stuck on the oven. Somehow it must have soften and harden again ???
I would have to force it off with a chisel if I want to remove it.  


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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #59 
Are both sides sticky? If you can figure out how to control the stick to one side, but not the other, you will be in great shape.

How long did you let it cure before placing on the oven? And was the silicone gasket being pressed from both sides?

Greg in MN
Bert

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Reply with quote  #60 
It cured for 3-4 days.
Neither side felt sticky at all when I attached the window.

Not sure what you mean being pressed from both sides.  I screwed the window  to the oven so I guess so.

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Bert K.
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