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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #41 
Looks good Bert. Now I want cookies!!![biggrin]

stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #42 
I'll settle for a pot roast [smile]
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #43 
Just need to order some sunshine. 😉

Here are some dimensions;

Inside is 16x16.
The back is 16" tall
Front about 11"
The outside is about 2'x2' width.  

If I move this thing around a lot I may replace the outside wood panels. They were cheap but really heavy.

I still need to install the door and do a new door gasket. Then make the reflectors.

Originally  I was going to put this on a 4x4 post in the ground.  Instead I'm thinking about making a cart on wheels for it to move it around easily. 


Closeup of pivot tray

pivot-t.gif  pivot-l.gif 




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Bert K.
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stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #44 
Agree. I was even thinking about something like an old bbq grill.
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dbc

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Reply with quote  #45 
Like your swingin' tray.  What is that, a baking sheet?  The lip around the edge of the tray is a good idea to control any spills.  Looks like you have plenty of tilt range to keep the tray from hitting bottom.

I looked through some of the videos in your YouTube library.  That one where the guy shows raw chicken to the (still alive) rooster before sticking it in the pot is classic!
Bert

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Reply with quote  #46 
I got a kick out that rooster. Guess he's like a pet around there.

The swing in the oven does work pretty well. The material is very slick like Teflon though. May need to use something else.
I put the pivot a bit toward the back. That seems to give it enough room to tilt better for the lower sun angles.

Decided to put in a back door today. Would have been a lot easier doing that from the start. Almost done with that part.

May mock up some reflectors with cardboard just to see how I want to make them. The window is about 16" square but the reflectors will be slightly wider and maybe 20" tall.

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Bert K.
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Bert

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Reply with quote  #47 
Been down with a bug a few days. Just a bad cold I think. 

Doug said that Mylar doesn't last long but I have it so I will give it a try. Should last long enough to see how it will do. Can always replace it with something else if needed.
Any tips on attaching the Mylar to wood? I've heard spray adhesive.



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Bert K.
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gbwillson

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Reply with quote  #48 
I've always found spray adhesive to work best. 3M makes a product called Super 77 and they sell it Menards in the paint department. Mylar is thin enough that the surface you are adhering the mylar will telegraph the texture, so you might want to choose a smooth surface, as any defects will diffuse the reflection.

It's easier to get a smooth application if you have a 2nd set of hands helping. Basically you adhere one edge of the mylar before laying the remaining film onto the surface while pulling taut. If you have no help, only apply glue along one edge, adhere the film, wait until the adhesive dries a bit before sticking down the remaining film. The initial glued-down edge takes the place of a helper. Very thin mylar is somewhat transparent, so you may want the substructure white for brightest reflection. Mylar also has a film side and a reflective side. Make sure the film side is up for the best protection. And lastly, if the film has folds or wrinkles, such as an emergency blanket, you may want to smooth as much as possible before applying. laying between two smooth, flat boards, or even applying a little heat from a hairdryer might help.

Greg in MN
Bert

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Reply with quote  #49 
Thanks for the tips.  Maybe painting the wood  and letting it dry first may help the reflectability. Is that a word?  😉
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Bert K.
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stmbtwle

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Reply with quote  #50 
Suppose the mylar were just glued around the edges and stretched tight?

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