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Onoff

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Posts: 41
Reply with quote  #21 
A fair few self (house) builders here buy poly iso "seconds" at discount from a few companies set up to sell such. You buy a big stack maybe with rips in the foil or the odd corner taken off. The other thing is thickness variance. Might be nominally 75mm thick but they will say between 70 and 80mm. Perfectly fine with a few foil tape and expanding foam repairs!

Gordy

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Posts: 137
Reply with quote  #22 
Onoff,  Sounds like you have all the cans you need. The hole saw didn't work that well for me, better was to use a can opener like this one  https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gourmet-Club-Can-Opener/22374191  But on mine the cutting wheel was dull and needed sharpened a bit. Tilt the top of the opener about 15 degrees in for the top of the can, and for the bottom lay it almost flat with the cutting wheel inside the bead of the can.

Instead of using T's on your next one check out this flaring tool. I forget where I found it [frown]  but at least I saved the pictures ;-) Scribe a line the length of the pipe and mark and drill small holes where you want. Then pull the T's in the solid pipe. This will save some money on T's and a lot of soldering.

pipe flare label.jpg 
Finished joint, 3/4" header 1/2" riser, inside pipe used as temporary spacer.

tee hook_small.JPG
Fine thread bolt, J hook ground to 5/16" thick and 1/2" wide for 1/2" pipe, edges rounded and polished.

flaring tool_small.JPG 
The hole the J hook is in needs to be big enough for the hook and the copper that will be pulled in.

tee hook going in to the pipe_small.JPG 
Hook started into hole. Note the other end has flat's ground for a wrench.
A lite coat of plumbers grease can be applied to the hook to lube it.

tee hook in the pipe_small.JPG 
Hook centered, install block and nut. 

flaring tool 2_small.JPG 
Hold nut and turn J hook out.

Gordy


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Gordy,
Minnesota
Onoff

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Posts: 41
Reply with quote  #23 
Thank you. The T bolt idea looks very interesting though I must confess I'm struggling to see how it works. I found the instructions here:

http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/SpaceHeating/KenSolShed/TeePuller.htm

A YouTube video would have been an idea, there seems a few step photos missing.

It's something I could easily make but I can't see quite how the J hook doesn't pull up straight through the 3/4" pipe whereas surely you want it to rotate to form the short T stub as it comes out?
Gordy

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Posts: 137
Reply with quote  #24 
Thank you for the link, hopefully I won't lose it again ;-) As to how it works. The bolt is tuned out, not pulled straight through. Look at the part that goes inside the pipe, it has a V shape. The nut has to be held in place and the bolt turned out. The V will start pulling the copper at the edge of the hole, creating a funnel shape in the pipe as you back the bolt out. Then as the edges of the J bolt's V shape meet the pipe it is pulling the pipe up into the block for the final sizing from the V shape to straight edges. In a couple of the picture of the bolt you can just make out the end opposite of the J has flats ground for a wrench or socket. Also note that he used a fine tread bolt, so that it reforms the copper slowly or should I say smaller increments as it turns.
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Gordy,
Minnesota
Onoff

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Posts: 41
Reply with quote  #25 
All I can do is make one and try it. I've handily got some of your "UNF" bolts as I've made myself a couple of Starrett hole saw adaptors of late to compliment the Starrett "Oops". This for enlarging existing holes:

58996ee2e7dfe_2017-02-0620_58_28.jpg.1e4b0eba32964f7d67954fb27c9dab06.jpg 

So I can use two small arbor hole saws:

DSC01074_zps4cf7cff9.jpg 
Or two larger arbor hole saws:

imageproxy.jpg 


Gordy

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Posts: 137
Reply with quote  #26 
That hole saw idea could come in handy.

As to the T puller. Remember that the copper is soft and malleable, or easy to work in to other forms. Especially if you heat it, while hot it will be softer yet.

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Gordy,
Minnesota
Onoff

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Posts: 41
Reply with quote  #27 
Just been playing on the CAD getting back into things. Cans.....just because I "can":

can_001.jpg 

And thoughts for a shallow pitch shed roof collector:

34324531955_7ee06d7c96_z.jpg 
And incorporated into a ridge with a down pipe to warm the shed:

34283558826_0cf4a86306_z.jpg 

Onoff

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Posts: 41
Reply with quote  #28 
And continuing the mad musing after a beer and armed with a craft knife & pair of scissors:

A 440ml Fosters can yields a nice piece of aluminium. I think about 0.25mm thick:

33483991704_bf773b8837_z.jpg 

34325701275_84063a2d57_z.jpg 

Add a pipe clip as a former and run it up and down:

33515416353_d607c91545_z.jpg 

Looks like a clip fin to me:

34284726236_21c58b6e5b_z.jpg 

Except it springs out of shape when you take the clips off:

34284723896_bcf95b6b41_z.jpg 

However.....the metal is so thin I reckon you could stick it to foil backed poly iso with foil tape to keep the shape?

stmbtwle

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Posts: 2,745
Reply with quote  #29 
Sounds like it needs to be annealed. Try this:


You MAY not need the soap as the paint might be an indicator...

Even if it works annealing a hundred or so beer cans is going to be a pain.  I don't know if you could put all those in an oven and do them at once or not. More research is required.


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Solar is like the wind. It may be free, but putting it to work isn't!
Willie, Tampa Bay
gbwillson

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Posts: 2,247
Reply with quote  #30 
By more research, do you mean more BEEEEEEEER?
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